These were made with handspun yarn, using 3.25 mm double pointed needles. Results may vary depending on the yarn you use but my handspun was approx 16-17 wpi.
Cast on 12 sts using the majic cast on method or the eastern cast on.
- knit one row
- increase 4 stitches each row (i.e. in the first row; make 1, knit 6, make 2, knit 6, make 1) until there are 32 stitches
- increase 4 stitches every other row until there are 40 sts
- increase 4 stitches every third row until there are 48 sts
- work 2 rows even
Pattern Stitch (work first two and last two of the 24 stitches as knit stitches for the instep) (rt = right twist)
- (rt, p1, k2, p1) repeat, end rt
- (k2, p1, rt, p1) repeat, end k2
Work sole in stocking stitch and instep in pattern until the sock is approx 6.5 inches or desired length. (about 1.5 inches short of foot length) End with row 2. Count your twists to ensure the second sock is the same.
Work heel on 28 sts, placing central 20 sts of instep on a holder or waste yarn for later.
Work a short row heel until there are 8 sts between wraps and then until all sts have been recovered. Instructions for the heel can be found in my other sock patterns if you wish to review them.
Edited to add instructions for short row heel….
Work a short row heel on 28 sts, decreasing to 8 stitches between wraps and increasing until all stitches have been recovered. Make a wrap on both sides of the last row and work these wraps with the first and last instep stitches, to prevent holes.
First half of heel;
row 1; (rs) knit across to the last heel stitch (do not work the last stitch), then turn the work around. There will be 1 stitch unworked.
row2; (ws) yo backward, purl to the last st, leaving 1 st unworked at this end of the needle.
row3; (rs) yo as usual and knit to the paired sts made by the yo of the previous row (the yo will stick out to the side of unworked st), leaving 3 stitches on the left needle (i.e., do not knit the pair), turn.
row4; (ws) yo backward and purl to the paired stitches made by the yo of the previous row – 3 stitches left unworked on left needle.
repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 8 stitches between yarnovers and then begin the second half as follows;
row1; (rs) wrap and knit to the first st of the pair (yo and knit st), k1, correct the mount of the yo, k2tog (the yo with the first st of the next pair) leaving a yo as the first stitch on the left needle.
row2; (ws) yo backward, purl to the paired stitch made by the yo of the previous row, purl the first st of the pair, ssp (the yo with the first st of the next pair leaving a yo as the first st on the left needle).
row3;(rs) yo as usual, knit to the paired st made by the yo of the previous row, knit the first st of the pair (the following two loops are yo’s), correct the mount of the yo’s, k3tog (the two yo’s with the next st), turn.
row4;(ws) yo backward, purl to the next yo, sssp (slip 3 sts knitwise and purl tbl) (the two yo’s with the first st of the next pair)
row5; (rs) yo, knit to the next yo, k3 tog, turn.
Repeat rows 4 and 5 until all sts are worked. Wrap sts as usual after turning on final row. (these sts will be purled together with the first instep sts on each side to prevent holes)On last row, knit across sole stitches and purl wrap with first purl stitch of Chart One. (The second wrap will be purled with the last stitch of the instep when you get there)
Now that the heel is complete;
- begin round just before instep sts, place marker.
- work pattern (beginning with row 1) as before…there will be enough sts to continue in pattern around (continuing as – (row1) (p1, k2, p1, rt) repeat and end p1, k2, p1 (row2) (p1, rt, p1, k2) repeat and end p1, rt, p1)
- Continue working until desired length. Increases can be added as additional purl stitches in between the twists as required.